Watch Jemaa el-Fna fill at dusk
The square is two different places. By day it is wide, hot and mostly orange juice carts. An hour before sunset the food stalls roll in, the smoke rises and the gnaoua drums start. That transition is the thing to see, and it happens fast. Take a rooftop terrace on the south side for the wide view, then come down into it rather than watching from above all evening. Keep your bag in front of you in the crush. Agree any price before a photo with the monkeys or the snakes, or simply walk on.



















